Sunday: The Mediterranean Sea to Patras to Athens

During the 15½ hour ferry ride I slept like a baby with my neck pillow, eye mask and ear plugs. Kaitlin on the other hand was restless all night and had to combat the additional distraction of a 5am stop in Igoumenitsa, Greece. At 830am we were woken up by one of the waiters and told “enough”. We put ourselves together and sat out on the deck enjoying the wind and the sea. While on board we bought bus tickets to Athens (thanks to Kaitlin’s sharp eye). The 5 hour bus ride was uncomfortable, but Kaitlin chatted up the fellow riders and got some tips on where to stay and how to get to Istanbul.

When we finally arrived in Athens one of our new friends asked to peek at our map; which worked out great because we ended up tagging along and getting a room in the same hostel as her.

Dani at the front desk suggested eating at Tsipouradiko Ja Karafikia and after showers and we walked our starving selves to the restaurant. Dani’s friend suggested food and we said yes. Dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves- my request), lamb with potatoes and meatballs with rice. We finished it up with a cappuccino… oh how we miss you Italian café latte. Our host was very accommodating and he even gave us free shots J. He wouldn’t tell us the recipe, but they looked like shamrock shake.

(Oh yes our tables were on a narrow little street, but that did not stop bikes, cars and trucks driving down it)

Back at the hostel we used what little Euros we had and cashed in on our 2 free ouzo shots and two drinks each. After that we updated the blog and photos. We are going to stay in Athens an extra night and catch a plane rather than bus. Happy to have a room for a few nights and see a little more of Greece and Athens. I would say good night if I knew a lick of Greek.

As Kaitlin put it, “It’s all Greek to me.”

Just for those following here is our chaotic 48 hour summary:

 Bus-> taxi-> train-> taxi-> ferry-> bus-> taxi-> hostel.

We are soooooo done with Rome

No day is complete in Kait and Alli's world without a bit of drama....

Morning: Awoke, packed, ate our meager breakfast, deposited luggage in storage at hostel and departed for the tour bus that our tickets were still valid for.

Our plan: To visit the Colosseum (outside) briefly, then see the Trevi Fountain. Our train ticket was for 2:40, so we intended to head back to the hostel around 1 to leisurely grab out luggage and sit and wait for the train.

What really happened: It was a Saturday in Rome.... And we were on a tourist bus.... You can see where we went wrong. The city was more packed then it had been all wee. We couldn't even squeeze onto a bus. So we walked up the street, and by happy luck caught our bus 1 stop before the hectic train station stop. It felt like this bus was taking forever. Yesterday we zoomed through the streets, now we were inching. We finally made it to the Colosseum, check, did one lap, check, and b lined it back to the bus stop.

And waited.... And waited...deflected merchants.... Waited... Waited...ugh! We are definitely going to be late. Finally the bus arrived, and we boarded first (it pays to stand by the tour bus guide). We inched our way through the streets..drifting off to sleep a little...but anxiously checking our one time device... The watch. We finally arrived at the stop we wanted, followed the crowd to the fountained. Said ok... There it is, check, shoved through people to get near it, check, threw coins in, check.

And then attempted to go back to the bus. Let's talk for a moment about European streets.... They would give Pittsburgh a run for it's money... I mean we tried to follow a map. But certain streets aren't listed, and then other streets just don't go where they say they do. I tried my hand at leading... Took us the wrong way. We doubled back... Alli tried to lead... No luck. After several expletives and stomping of feet we realized we were lost and hungry and thirsty.... And majorly going to miss our train... And if we missed our train then we would miss our ferry... And most likely miss getting to Greece at all! Alli in her frustration mentioned taking a taxi, so I hoped right to it and hailed one down the quickest I could. We pointed to our hostel on the map and asked to get there fast. Our cap driver flew through the streets, I tried to watch where he was going, but I think he got a bit turned about... Grrrrr i don't know how to argue in Italian for money back, oh well... We made it!

Transportation thus far: Bus and Taxi We retrieved luggage, grabbed food, went to the train station and sat.... Ok we did it! We scarfed down our new staple (gyros) and I answered several people's queries about the train station, where Internet cafe's and hostels are, and where certain platforms are located. Apparently 2 females sitting on the ground with luggage and mouths full of food = information booth. Ha! Caught the train..... 4 hours later we were in Bari and went straight for the information area of the station. Neither of us knew how to get to the ferry from the train station... (Did I mention that check in for the ferry was at 6pm and that it was now 6:45 and the ferry leaves the doc at 8pm sharp?) Well the polite man at the info booth told us to take a bus to get to the ferry... "how long?" asked Alli... "15 minutes".... What! We are never going to make it on a bus that might take forever just to arrive at the station, let alone get to the docs. We decided to suck it up and take a taxi. Alli and I both found a taxi, and there was a bit of a scrimmage to decide which one to take. We told the man where we needed to go, and said ok 20€. "!€$@&!" whaaaaat... I said no way, and he said ok 15. Alli was still skeptical,but I agreed just to get us there. My nails dug into the seat cushion as he steamed through the Italian streets, cutting off multiple other drivers. Apparently traffic laws do not apply in the south of Europe. But we made it, checked into the ferry station. How do we get to the ferry? We wandered for some time down the pier, dodging 18 wheelers curing up to enter as well. Some old men kept calling to us, instructing us where to go. The security men were smoking so they waved us through... Guess our luggage has been checked... And we weaved through more 18 wheelers to enter the ferry.

Transportation Count: Bus, Taxi, Train, Taxi, Ferry.... How would I describe the ferry....hmmm. The Ferry is like a small cruise ship I think. We are in the dining area, commandeered 2 seats and hope we can stay here since it's going to be cold outside. Not sure how one stays comfortable. We both downed Dramamine.. I just sipped on a coke and my motion sickness passed. I have been using Internet I bought for 3€, and Alli has ear plugs in and is reading from Ronna's e reader. I have been watching the Greek tv that we are by. They is a tv show about a Greek couple, and it is making me laugh... I just wish I knew what they were saying. That's our update for now... Please leave comments and send love.... We have approx 18 hours on this boat, then somehow getting to Athens by bus or train, spending the night in Athens, then boarding an 18 hour bus to Istanbul turkey.... Wish us luck Adventure... To be continued.. <3 Kait and Alli

Friday in Rome, Enjoying Rome

This morning our plan was to see Rome, we were going to go on the Ancient City Tour which left at 9am from the train terminal. Unfortunately we tried booking too late (8:45) and we were refused entry. We went back to the room and quickly fell asleep, not waking until around noon… I think sleep was in our best interest after being trapped in Pompei yesterday and habitually staying up late for a glimmer of communication with family and friends.

After the nap Kaitlin suggested a bus tour and it was exactly what we needed. The bus driver took us on a whirlwind tour of Rome, hitting all of the major sites (visible from the road) within an hour’s time. We were back before we knew it and ready for lunch and a long relaxing evening. After lunch we stopped at the local super market for Fanta, to mix with the rum we want to empty, and Lemoncello. We started with the lemoncello, it was not what we expected, it was not bitter, but not sweet and had a strange taste, Kaitlin said it tasted like lemon peel. We mixed the Fanta with the lemoncello and shared a glass with our roommate. After our roomie left we finished up the bottle, I decided the floor was a more appropriate place for me, took a nap (on the floor) and then vlogged. Vacation is fun! I should take more naps on floors.

At some point we decided food was probably important, the chicken gyros were hardly worth the walk, but curbed our drunken haze until we returned to finish the rum and drank two vending machine wines. Yum! Floor time? Just kidding.

Since then we have been hanging out on our computers, I seem to have limited connectivity so I looked at my photos, deleted unnecessary ones, enhancing the others and that brings us to now. I will probably go and read until I fall into a deep drunk sleep.

Tomorrow we will go back for a closer inspection of the Colloseum and to find the Fountain of Trenti and make a wish. Ciao friends.

Well.... Ya know... We have to tire ourselves out entirely...

Thursday 9/1 Pompeii and Naples

After a long night in the lobby of our hostel and our hostel friends providing us with Internet, I woke Alli up at 8:15am to get ready, nom on some toast and tried to catch the 9:18 train..... O well we took the later train. I promptly nocked myself out for the trip to Naples, which were uncomfortable seats and I slept in a very awkward position. Once in Naples, we had a bit of a wait until our next train so we wanted to get something to eat. No, not pizza, we were coming back later for pizza. Our first impressions, it was dirty.... Very very dirty. I mean when I walk and trash hits me, I'm not too happy. After making our traditional (and non intentional) loop of the area, we settled for a little kebab place. Which Alli and I promptly finished before the half of block walk back to the station.

On the train.... Again... This time with smokers.... and a toddler who would not stop playing with the little metal trash lid... Lift "snap", Lift "snap","Lift "snap".... I think the mother tried to apologize to me, but once again.... I have no idea what she said. So I just shrugged and said it's ok. Ugh... I must say, that if you are going to travel with your child, you should pay attention to them. I love children, and I am a very tolerant person, but when a child is running rapid in a public restaurant or a public means of transportation... I begin to question.... Oh well, it doesn't matter.

We arrived in Pompeii, a bit haggard, but determined. Alli guided us into a tourist information center. Quite handy they are, with maps and knowledge, go figure. The polite woman behind the counter told us it takes around 2 or 3 hours to do Pompeii and that it was a 5 minute walk from there. Deciding That that was doable, we sauntered over to the closest entrance, payed the 11€to enter, and b lined it for the restroom.

At first we were excited, excited to be in this ancient city, excited to see all the ruins, even excited to see the stray dogs that litter the streets. The longer we wound our way through street after street of ruined stone house... We wanted to see the big stuff, we wanted to see the bodies.... We were hot and tired and dirty (the dust is unavoidable).

We asked a couple people if they have seen the ancient remains of pompeiians.... Finally we got a hint, "o yea they are between 2 vineyards down towards the bottom". We sprinted down the alleys and searched everywhere we could. Then we saw it. Those tiny tiny people, forever encased in their terror. They were hidden in a corner of a vineyard, no sign pointing to them, just there in a little protected case beside a wall. Children and adults reaching for each other and covering their heads, it was quite a sight to see. When we had our fill we moved on.

The sun was getting to us, sometimes we joined a tour group and listened to factoids, other times we wandered. We played a game called "find the brothel signs" which was fun. Finally we made it to the main part of the city, it seems we entered Pompeii in the residential area, and spent all of our energy in that area, so by the time we made it to all the main things, like the theater the gladiators quarters, forums, and baths.... We were tuckered out. By this point we were well sunned, and water was running low. We oooooed and awed our fill and new we needed to get back.

We were lost.... Tired.... Very hungry and cranky.... So we vlogged on Alli's little iPod. Which perked our spirits... For a moment.

I will spare you the details... But we made it out, back to the station and collapsed onto the platform to wait for the train. But of course an old Italian man needed to talk to us... So I guess this was their hang out spot with his gang of old toothless Italian cronies. As Alli started to eat a sleeve of ritz crackers, I made polite conversation with the gentleman.

We chatted for some time about Naples and Pompeii and how English was always easy for him. He gave us Italian names Catalina and Alexandra, and wouldn't refer to us as anything but that. As we kept peering down the track for a train, he proceeded to give me an Italian lesson, talking about the infinitive tense and how to conjugate verbs....in broken English mind you.

Finally the train came and I bit him Arrivederci, and went to board the train. But the man exclaimed Alexandra and grabbed Alli into a hug, and took her face in his weathered hands and kissed her cheeks. A bit wobbly, she boarded the train behind me...."what just happened?" I don't know Al, I don't know...

Once in Naples I asked a police man where a certain Anthony Bourdain recommended restaurant was. We made it there with no problem, but they said they weren't open for another hour. Feeling disappointed we sighed and just stood there for several minutes wondering what we should do now. Eventually another waiter came over and said "Pizza? Yes... pizza" and waved us in. We were the only ones inside the adorable restaurant. I couldn't now stop saying, wow no reservations was here... Wow. Alli turned to me and grunted, "Really Kait? We were just all over Pompeii, an ancient city where thousands lost their lives to a natural disaster and their remains are forever on display for the masses.... And you are wowed by a pizza shop that a travel channel celebrity ate at once....". I thought for a moment.... "well yes, yes I am...."

When she put it that way I felt a bit foolish, but I think I still need to process Pompeii. It was a lot to take in, and then we got lost... So yes a small restaurant that a food critic suggests definitely would wow me. Honestly neither of us remember what we tasted... But we have pictures of how beautiful it was.

After that it was a blur... Over gluten-ed and dehydrated... We passed out on the train (of course we had an issue on the train the man who wouldn't leave Alli's seat, getting smacked by the door, people pushed us to get on and off), and in no time we were home... Home aka Rome.

That shower felt amazing.... We were covered in dirt which made us look tanner then we were. Post shower I was totally ready for a long nights sleep.... But did we go to bed, no. We went to see our friends in the lobby and got Internet cards. I was glad to reconnect with friends, and to skype with my parents.

Finally Alli and I decided to go to bed around 1:3o am or so.... We knew we just had an extremely long day, and that we wished to wake up early tomorrow for a tour of ancient Rome.

The moral of the story, "if you are going to see something you don't know, in a country where you don't speak the language.... Get a dang tour guide..."

The second moral, " don't write about the day before when u have been drinking Limoncello"

The end

<3 Kait and Alli

Wednesday in Siena and Florence

So this morning Kaitlin decided to be the responsible one, she woke up early, checked off most of her to-do list and settled back in for nap until I was ready. I was not ready… and we had to race to the train station, purchase tickets with a scant 3 minutes until departure (the lines were so long I decided to pay cash in an automatic machine)… we frantically ran about trying to find the train, but the ticket contained almost no information on it. Kaitlin got us to the correct train, but it wasn’t without the daily dose of sweat and adrenaline we are becoming so accustomed too.

So here I should explain that there are a few trains everyday to Florence and Sienna that cost about half the price, I just had an epiphany about why, but we will get to that. So, Kaitlin had the ticket departing to Rome and arriving in a transfer city and I had the ticket leaving the transfer city, arriving in Sienna, hence my ticket was of no use and explains why the conductor told us we were at the wrong place the first time we got to the train. Thankfully, Kaitlin, with her Rome departure ticket led us back to the train just in the nick of time… I have no idea how we made it in 3 minutes but that is the story of this trip.

As I previously mentioned our second ticket didn’t have much information on it, so when we arrived in the transfer city we went straight to Information and held the ticket up to the glass, “Bus, out the door turn left” was the dry reply over the speaker. Bus? We didn’t want a bus, we wanted a train, we have already had our fill of buses. This may be why our tickets were half price. Kaitlin instantly went for the Dramamine and we settled in for another nauseating drive through wine country. We napped and after 2 long hours we pulled up to the station at Sienna.

Our current knowledge of Sienna: 2011 Top 10 European City in Travel and Leisure Magazine. That’s it. That’s all we know, but I wanted to hit as many of the cities on that list as possible, so there we were, in Sienna, Italy without a clue in the world.

The bus station dropped us off in the entrance of a mall so we ventured in and without much trouble (note much sarcasm here) got some lunch. After lunch, mall cafeteria coffee (still delicious), I adored our barista and wish we would have left her our blog address. Afterward we went up the escalator expecting to find Sienna, instead we found another escalator and another and another, I think 5 in total and they were the long ones, like at the Pittsburgh Zoo. When we reached the top the view was beautiful, as you might have expected after so many escalators. We wandered the city, but found it to be quiet and uneventful, so we got some gelato (Kaitlin will testify this is some of the best gelato she has ever had) and within an hour of entering the city we were gone.

*Kaitlin and I have noted that everything is more expensive in Europe except coffee and wine. This has led to dehydration and cracked lips, but the coffee and wine are so delicious we suffer on.

So it seems there is a train that passes through Sienna and although it did not bring us into this city I am glad it will be leading us out. A few hours later we were in Florence, for the third time in three days, this time we are hoping to see more than the block encircling the train station. The first hour was not very promising, we spent the time circling the station eating, drinking, using the restroom and trying to obtain directions, but around 615 we received news that the “Bubbly (Buboli) Gardens” do not close until 730, so we made a mad dash for the taxi stand across the street and headed off. 

By 630 we were dropped off at the entrance. The man blocking the entrance said closed and when I showed him the paper the tourist office had given us stating that it did not close until 730 he muttered some Italian which I translated as, “English are not allowed in after 6”. Sad and deflated after such a long and disappointing day we headed back to the huge door which marked the entrance to the inner city and eventually walked to 47 v. de’ Serragli ( during the taxi cab I noticed the charming trattoria and the sign for $2 vini and amazingly I caught the address as well). We ordered a few sandwiches and finished up 4 glasses of wine, content that this is why we came all this way, back to Florence, for the third time, we meandered back to the train station, back to Rome.

Back to the hostel and the common room for about an hour until midnight until we translocate to the lobby- good wifi connection and a place to hunker down when the common room is closed.  Iban and JP have made us feel at home in their lobby and we are accustomed to their routine, raise the feet to sweep, then up to mop… Need another internet card? Here, for when your time runs out. Some pizza? Sure. Tea? No thanks the Chianti is treating us well. Now that we found an outlet, they will never get rid of us. We owe a huge acknowledgment and I am not sure we will ever be able to repay their kindness and acceptance. Thank you guys J You have made us a temporary home in your lobby in Rome and I hope to return someday and return the favor.

During our time in the lobby we also met a couple hostellers from England who were able to suggest a pizzeria outside Naples… hope we are able to make it tomorrow, if not Karen has done some legwork for us also and located some amazing Neapolitan pizza in Naples- thanks Karen!

Today we did a whole lot of nothing, but when we find those gems we are reminded that every agonizing moment is worth it, here is to a better tomorrow (Alli raises the bottle of 1.99E Chianti and takes a large swig). Salut!

While I’m on the subjects of thanks, if any of the McGees are reading, thanks for helping take care of the Bean. A dog is a huge responsibility and I am so happy to have so many friends so close to home willing to help. I will see you all soon!

8/30/11 Roma, Italia and Vatican City

When in Rome.....

Ok.... Aaaaarrrrrggggg! ....So the Latina girls in our room were so loud, last night and this morning. I can tolerate a lot of noise, but incessant laughter at 7 am, banging the door, and other carrying on.... Is too much. Alli and my patience can only extend so far.

Eventually we slumped down to brunch... O what a surprise... Toast and cereal with warm milk.... But food is food... So we ate. Alli had the foresight that we probably could hang out in the room this morning, and just apologize if they came in for cleaning (for those who don't know in a hostel there are lock out hours for cleaning everyday usually from 10am until 2pm). We used this time to charge cameras etc, and I settled in for a post breakfast nap.

Waking up close to 1pm we departed from the hostel for food and the 2:30 'When in Rome' Vatican tour. We quickly grabbed food and chugged water, then took Line A in the metro to Ottaviano. Once above ground we tried to orient ourselves quickly, but a tour salesman was right on top of us... Let me help you, let me help you. Ugh, we thanked him for pointing out the correct street and quickly ran away... We appreciate the help... But every one of these "helpers" has the same lines. "beautiful girls let me help, come back tomorrow, i have the best deal" Goodness, we honestly cannot walk 3 blocks without cat calls... It gets old really fast. We arrived at the meeting spot early for the tour and hung out in the much appreciated air conditioning. I believe our tour guide was named Sara. She has been giving these tours for over 10 years, and really had a quick wit about her and a thorough knowledge of art and architecture.. She actually reminded me a lot of Sarah Eastly... So I couldn't help thinking of her the whole time.

We all had ear buds in which helped us hear her as we sauntered through the museum. Our tour guide took us from room to room, giving interesting facts, and telling us where there were faults, and what to skip because they weren't all that important. At one point we hung out in the pinecone courtyard and she asked... "The guards aren't looking, who wants to play spin the sphere?" Of course Alli and my ears pearked up right away! She had me hop the velvet ropes in the center of this courtyard, to go up to a sculpture and push it....and it began to turn on the spot... Wahooo! I bet you are jealous... Well you should be... And maybe if you are good, Alli will post the pic!

We sat in the shade and our tour guide showed us up close pictures of the different frames in the Sistine chapped and explained the nuances, mistakes, time line, and historical significances. it really was intriguing, and I found myself trying to absorb every word. Once our head was filled to the brim, we crossed the rest of the courtyard to the sculptural hall "be ready to see a bot of broken statues...that really don't mean anything" mind you, i broke my walky talkie ear thing....and got made fun of at this point... "o pennsylvania, what am i going to do with you!" I laughed a lot at her, maybe too much, but I couldn't help it. Once inside the hall I found it fascinating that these sculptures weren't always white, they used to be painted realistically, but centuries of sun and rain etc had washed it out. Please see the pictures... I cannot begin to explain the vastness of the assortment of artwork on display.

I must note that there was a long tapestry hallway. The best tapestry really uses the geometry of vantage points. When you stand on one side and look at 2 tapestries side by side the long skinny stone door that Jesus is standing on and the table in the tapestry next to it are facing you.... Then as you walk down the hall and look back... They are facing you the other way! it was really neat!I had to go back and do it again.

In the Sistine Chapel we weren't supposed to take pictures, so I didn't. But Alli was brave, so maybe she will share some with you. I was shocked at how small it was! I had pictures a huge cathedral.... But wait.... It's called a chapel.... Not a cathedral.... Should have been a clue. Oh well... When in rome..... Bumping into people every few seconds and feeling like my eyes and brain may fall out of my ears at any moment... I started to stair at the floor for a bit.... Overload Overload Overload. We ended our tour by walking out into the steps of the Piazza San Pietro. 'Wow here it is', I thought... This view floored me, more then anything else, as I stared up at the Popes balcony and looked out at the circular arena.

Our tour guide bid us fair well, and we walked into St Peters Basilica. It was huge! This is what I imagined the sixteen chapel would look like. Alli and I looked to the rit and there was the Pieta (sp?) behind bullet proof glass, so beautiful. Then I saw what shocked me to the core, Pope John Paul's area... Huge statues all blocked off by fencing, a single nun was sitting in the pews in front of his tomb. I knelt right there behind the fencing to pray... Getting trampled on and hearing a crack as an Asian girl tripped over my feet, "thank you God for giving me the gift of this trip..oooouch!" But it didn't matter, this is what I had wanted to see more then anything else in all of Italy. JP 2, I miss you.

There was a mass going on further down the Basilica, so I listened to the prayers and sang along, getting looks from tourists who just didn't understand. And yes I knelt and prayed in many many areas... Thank you Alli for being so so so patient with me. (might I mention that Alli has a new thing with taking pictures of interesting looking angels... Especially cherubs, and that one drunk lute playing one hehe, you have to ask her). Seizing my once in lifetime opportunity, I did the touristy thing and marched into the gift shop and bought holy metals and holy water containers.... Now, where can I fill them? I kept asking security personal after security personal....but... it was closed... The holy water font was closed. I could have cried...and yes I may have... Right there in front of the stone slab listing the names of every Pope. But one of the guards saw my despair and said... Hold on.... He swiped my bag of Vatican merchandise and sprinted off jumping over a velvet rope. I waited and waited... Hoping this guy really worked here and that I hadn't lost what I just purchased. And there he came back with a big smile on his face, "there you go miss". Yessssss! I am sooo thankful! All I wanted was to bring back some holy water from the Vatican to my parents and grandparents, Thank You!

Alli and I reconnected and walked the Piazza... Admiring the view...then agreed we were hungry and needed food ASAP. Yes yes yes, all we talk about in this blog is moving around, drinking, sleeping and eating.... But that is life... And it is awesome.

We found a nice little place and shared a pizza, several waters, a tiramasu, and more coffee! After being well fed, we found a nice gift shop, then boarded the metro to go back to the hostel. Our feet were screaming, I mean for goodness sake, we entered another country today! We settled in for what seemed like an early night, we have big plans for the next couple days.

Overall, seeing the Vatican tourist style was nicer then expected: our group was small, our tour guide was entertaining, and the sites were awe inspiring. Another great adventure, with the best friend anyone could have in the whole world... Honestly... Does it get much better then that?

<3
Kait and Alli
(nose taps)